Travnik: the forgotten capital

In the valley of the river Lasva, which is neither sleepy nor muddy but clean and with golden sand, is a town situated on the slopes of mountains Bukovica and Vilenica.

For centuries, the town remained isolated by the very reason for its existence. The Plava Voda and Hendek springs create the famous Travnik ffogs that successfully concealed the town from aggressors many times, including - they say - 1992-1995.

Plava Voda Spring:


As Ivo Andric, a Nobel prize winner and the town's most famous son, wrote: "Never had anyone counted how many sunny hours nature has taken away from this town. Travnik's people do not deny it, but they also claim the sun, when it shines, shines over their town like nowhere else."

Ancient neolithic settlements can be found in the area, which a culture similar to the Butmir peoples of Sarajevo. Their settlements are still thriving districts (Alihodze, Karahodze, and Brajkovici). According to local legends, in the old days elves used to live in these settlements and when the fairies would dance on Vilenica hill, they would come out of hiding.

Many unique aspects of the region's Illyrian and Celtic culture are still popular among Travnik's citizens - for example beautiful jewelry and female tattoos, which are both given at birth.

The first mention of Travnik as a town is from a declaration of the Hungarian King Bela IV, dated 1244. In it he gives Travnik and the surrounding area to the ban of Bosnia. It is only after this date that we find stecak (Bosnian tombstones) and castles in the style of King Ostoja of Bosnia, who brought the heretical Bosnian church to Travnik.

Kastel:


Travnik fell to the Ottomans on June 3, 1463 - a date recorded in the largest local castle. The Ottoman Empire brought its architecture, culture, and prosperity to Travnik and the town grew from a Slavic settlement to a large, Oriental city lost in the green landscape of Bosnia.

"Bosnian" Travnik:


"Oriental" Travnik:




Travnik was selected as the capital of Ottoman Bosnia and was under the jurisdiction of more than 75 Viziers. Consuls from countries like France and Austria also made their homes in Travnik. During this period most of Travnik's famous landmarks were constructed - including the Vizier's palaces, Islamic Grammar schools, oriental tombstones, inns, Turkish baths, shops, and so on.

Travnik was conquered by the national hero of Bosniaks, Husein Gradascevic (Dragon of Bosnia) briefly during the 1800s, breaking the Vizier's hold on the town. In 1850, Travnik's last Vizier - Mehmed Tahir - passes away. His successor, Omer-pasa Latas, moves the capital of Bosnia to Sarajevo.

Today the town is home to roughly 20,000 citizens living in two distinct, historical districts - the Donja and Gornja carsijas. The population is composed mainly of Bosniaks, but also includes Bosnian Croats, Bosnian Serbs, Bohemians, and Sefards: "On top of the hill are, in a single space, Jewish, Catholic, and Muslim graves. Such a thing does not even exist in Jerusalem, where the Orthodox cemetery is separate and somewhat lower, next to the Jesuit Grammar School."

Travnik is famous for its tisina, or silence - something very culturally important to Bosnians. It is through this silence that, we say, you discover Bosnia's secrets. So a time spent in Travnik is considered a time spent in the heart of Bosnia.