Some sunny stuff.
Hawaii is famous for beeing a surfersparadise and the birthplace of surfing ( see links below for its history ). Great promotion by Hawaiians and Americans took place in the 20 th century leading to what would become a very popular water sport in the world.
It roots in Polynesia are much older , ofcourse. How old exactly is hard to tell but thats ancient is sure. It was even recorded by Captain Cook when he "discovered" Hawaii in 1778 . Some excerpt of that account on surfing ( actually from his lieutenant James King , the commander of the Discovery , one of Cooks ships ) :
But a diversion the most common is upon the Water, where there is a very great Sea, and surf breaking on the Shore. The Men sometimes 20 or 30 go without the Swell of the Surf, & lay themselves flat upon an oval piece of plan about their Size and breadth, they keep their legs close on top of it, & their Arms are us'd to guide the plank, thye wait the time of the greatest Swell that sets on Shore, & altogether push forward with their Arms to keep on its top, it sends them in with a most astonishing Velocity, & the great art is to guide the plan so as always to keep it in a proper direction on the top of the Swell, & as it alters its direct. If the Swell drives him close to the rocks before he is overtaken by its break, he is much prais'd.
On first seeing this very dangerous diversion I did not conceive it possible but that some of them must be dashed to mummy against the sharp rocks, but jus before they reach the shore, if they are very near, they quit their plank, & dive under till the Surf is broke, when the piece of plank is sent many yards by the force of the Surf from the beach. The greatest number are generally overtaken by the break of the swell, the force of which they avoid, diving and swimming under the water out of its impulse. By such like excercises, these men may be said to be almost amphibious. The Women could swim off to the Ship, & continue half a day in the Water, & afterwards return. The above diversion is only intended as an amusement, not a tryal of skill, & in a gentle swell that sets on must I conceive be very pleasant, at least they seem to feel a great pleasure in the motion which this Exercise gives.
Lieutenant James King , 1779.
According to that account and Hawaiian traditions, the ladies did it too. Must have been a great sight .
Old painting , Bishop Museum
Edited by Sander - 26-Aug-2007 at 21:00